I haven't yet decided to use a Tesla battery - with the biggest issue being battery module size. How to control the motor is a pending question, but there are multiple routes - all with some difficulty but still promising. While I don't have the best baseline to figure out how everything was connected - I also don't have to deal with the many bits of a Model S I have no use for. I went the buying bits from others route. It was always a toss up of getting my own salvage Tesla or buying bits from others. GregRF : I've been buying all the key EV bits piecemeal (although so far all from the same car). With the torque available from the EV it should be very fun to drive. Very customized DeLorean engines (known as PRV 2.8L) can get up to 250, and to get higher you have to go LS1 or other modern engine. While I'm using only one motor out of the 70D, it shoud (given a suitable battery design) provide much greater HP (maybe 250hp) than original. Skotty : The stock Delorean is estimated to have about 105hp at the wheels (maybe 115hp at the flywheel). It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal. The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. The solid Red and Red-White are different gauges - not sure of purpose yet. Both twisted pairs also go through a connector (of sorts) to branch off to addition same colored wiring (again probably CAN). The Green & Green-white and the Yellow-Red & Yellow-Green are likely CAN since they are twisted pairs and of a suitable gauge (talking to the ESP and other systems?). Seen as the four wires running to the connector at the bottom right of the pic. Four wires run between the ECU and the pedal travel sensors (seem heavy gauge for sensors?). The Black and Yellow-Grey are likely the power to the unit (probably 12v, but sized for high current maybe 20-30 amps). Figuring out the Bosch iBooster brake system (autopilot cars) - Starting with Physical Wiring